Felice a Testaccio

The cacio e pepe restaurant Romans argue about — tableside tossing in a hollowed Parmesan wheel, a dining room that's been family-run since 1936, and a queue that never really goes away.

The tableside cacio e pepe, tossed in a hollowed Parmesan wheel at your table, is as much a small performance as a dish — worth ordering even if you've had the pasta elsewhere in the city. Reservations are essential for dinner, and Sunday is lunch-only here — the kitchen doesn't reopen for dinner service that day.