Flavio al Velavevodetto

Construit à même le flanc du Monte Testaccio — une colline faite de deux mille ans de tessons d'amphores —, c'est la trattoria de l'amatriciana, de la gricia et de la coda alla vaccinara préparées à l'ancienne.

The restaurant is literally built into Monte Testaccio — cut into a hill formed entirely from broken Roman amphorae discarded over centuries — and part of the dining room's back wall is the exposed hillside itself. The quinto quarto dishes (coda alla vaccinara, trippa) are the reason to come rather than a fallback; if offal isn't for you, the amatriciana and gricia are excellent standalone reasons to book anyway.