Flavio al Velavevodetto

Direkt in die Flanke des Monte Testaccio gebaut — ein Hügel aus zweitausend Jahren zerschlagener Amphoren —, ist dies die Trattoria für Amatriciana, Gricia und Coda alla Vaccinara auf die altbewährte Art.

The restaurant is literally built into Monte Testaccio — cut into a hill formed entirely from broken Roman amphorae discarded over centuries — and part of the dining room's back wall is the exposed hillside itself. The quinto quarto dishes (coda alla vaccinara, trippa) are the reason to come rather than a fallback; if offal isn't for you, the amatriciana and gricia are excellent standalone reasons to book anyway.