Flavio al Velavevodetto

Ricavata direttamente nel fianco del Monte Testaccio — una collina fatta di duemila anni di anfore rotte — è la trattoria giusta per amatriciana, gricia e coda alla vaccinara fatte all’antica.

The restaurant is literally built into Monte Testaccio — cut into a hill formed entirely from broken Roman amphorae discarded over centuries — and part of the dining room's back wall is the exposed hillside itself. The quinto quarto dishes (coda alla vaccinara, trippa) are the reason to come rather than a fallback; if offal isn't for you, the amatriciana and gricia are excellent standalone reasons to book anyway.