Flavio al Velavevodetto

Construido directamente en la ladera de Monte Testaccio — una colina hecha de dos mil años de fragmentos de ánforas —, esta es la trattoria para la amatriciana, la gricia y la coda alla vaccinara preparadas a la antigua usanza.

The restaurant is literally built into Monte Testaccio — cut into a hill formed entirely from broken Roman amphorae discarded over centuries — and part of the dining room's back wall is the exposed hillside itself. The quinto quarto dishes (coda alla vaccinara, trippa) are the reason to come rather than a fallback; if offal isn't for you, the amatriciana and gricia are excellent standalone reasons to book anyway.