Ai Tre Scalini

A Monti wine bar so small and so popular that the crowd spills onto the cobblestones outside most nights. The house-infused mirtillo (blueberry) liqueur is the local order, best had standing up with a plate of cheese.

There's genuinely more standing room on the cobblestones outside than seating inside, and that's normal here rather than a sign of overcrowding — most regulars treat the street as an extension of the bar itself. The mirtillo liqueur is made in-house and isn't really available anywhere else in the city, reason enough to try it even if blueberry liqueur doesn't sound like your usual order.